Installation Guide | Pantry Doors
Follow this step-by-step guide to ensure a smooth installation process. Use the Table of Contents below to jump directly to the section you need. Instructions must be followed for a valid warranty.
📑 Table of Contents
1. Receiving
- Interior door frames ship with the door slab together inside the same crate.
- Inspect your door immediately after delivery.
- Report any damage to Pinky’s Iron Doors Customer Service within 3 days.
- Keep all original packaging for potential returns.
2. Storage & Handling
- Handle doors with at least 2 people.
- Store in a dry, covered area with fabric padding.
- Remove packaging immediately; do not store with shipping materials.
- Keep doors dry and wipe away moisture promptly.
- Never leave doors uncovered on an active job site before installation.
3. Tools Required
Tools Required: Only use scissors when opening the packaging for your doors, windows, and frames. Do not use razor blades or knives, as sharp blades can scratch or damage the painted finish. Metal has flex which can only be found by using a small 12-inch level and is the only correct level that must be used to accurately read the designated leveling points.
Tools Not to Use: Avoid razor blades, knives, levels longer then 12 inches, laser levels, straight edges, and wood shims. At every leveling point, use two opposing plastic shims for proper adjustment. Wood shims will crack and compress and are not suitable for our doors. Straight edges and rulers are not accurate tools of measurement for our doors since every door is hand forged and made without straight lines. Laser levels, and long levels will not find the flex in our doors during installation.
Tools to use
Tools not to use
4. Rough Opening Requirements
- Rough opening should be 1–2 inch wider and taller than the frame.
- Ensure the opening is plumb, level, and square on every side.
- Make sure there’s solid wood or metal backing where the frame screws will go.
- If you’re installing over finished flooring, account for floor height differences that secure flush bolts on double doors.
5. Frame Installation
Before you start installing your door frame, make sure your rough opening is plumb, level, and square. Use plastic shims at the leveling points.
- Use only a 12-inch level when installing. Laser levels and long levels are not sufficient.
- Always use plastic shims; wood shims compress over time.
- If using spray foam, it must be low-expanding and applied by a professional.
- Only blue vinyl painter’s tape on doors/frames.
- Replace tape regularly if exposed to sunlight.
- If duct tape needed, apply blue painter’s tape first.
Step 1: Verify Rough Opening
Confirm the rough opening is 1–2 inches larger than the steel frame on all sides. Use a 12-inch level to verify the opening is plumb, level, and square at all hinge and strike points. Ensure there is solid wood or steel backing where mounting screws will penetrate.
Step 2: Dry Fit the Steel Frame
Set the steel frame into the opening without fasteners. Confirm hinge side is flush, swing direction is correct, and reveal gaps are even. Mark all factory mounting hole locations on the rough opening for reference.
Step 3: Drill Through Front Wall of Tube
Using a small cobalt or high-speed steel bit, drill through the front wall or side wall (depending on how you choose to mount) of the steel at each mounting point. Keep the drill perpendicular to the frame to ensure straight fastener alignment.
Step 4: Counter-Bore for Screw Head
Switch to a larger diameter bit or step bit and drill a hole in the front wall of the tube where you want the screw to go. Drilling a larger allows the screw head to pass through the hole and sit against the backside of the frame.
Step 5: Drill Through Back Wall
Return to the original bit size and continue drilling through the back wall of the tube steel and into the rough opening structure. This creates a clean, straight pass-through for the fastener.
Step 6: Shim and Fasten
Install plastic shims at all leveling points. Insert #12 construction screws to pass through the counter-bored holes and into the structure. Start at the hinge side, then strike side, then top. Do not fully tighten until final alignment is confirmed.
Step 7: Final Torque and Finish
Recheck plumb, level, and reveals. Torque screws snug but not over-tight.Use the provided Push caps to cover the holes.
Troubleshooting
- If the bit walks, re-center punch and restart.
- If steel discolors blue, slow drill speed immediately.
- If screw sits proud, deepen counter bore in 1/32" increments.
- If frame flexes, you have over-counterbored and weakened the tube.
6. Door Panel Installation
Each hinge on our doors comes with a single brass washer. These washers are not meant to be used as shims.
To fix a door that isn’t closing smoothly:
- Recheck the frame’s level at each point using a 12-inch level.
- Use plastic shims to adjust where needed.
Apply petroleum grease to the bullet hinges, carefully hang the door, cycle it a few times, then recheck all leveling points.
7. Hardware & Finishing
Once the frame is fully mounted, cover the visible screw holes for a clean look. Some models include plastic push caps to cover these holes — if your door comes with them, simply snap them into place. Solid steel frames will not use caps. For colored frames, simply dab the screw head with matching paint after all adjustments have been made if you prefer the frame screws to match the color.
8. Care & Maintenance
✅ Regular maintenance keeps doors functioning perfectly. Clean monthly with Pinkys Iron door spray and lubricate hinges yearly with any petroleum grease.
- Vacuum dust/debris after installation.
- Protect doors with blue vinyl painter’s tape only.
- After construction, remove tape and wipe down with Pinkys Iron + Steel Clean Protect Spray.
9. Troubleshooting
1. Our doors are designed with real, solid metal craftsmanship. Because we apply high heat during welding, the metal shifts slightly during the cooling process and contracts, which means you might notice tiny subtle variations rather than straight lines. This is normal and part of the handcrafting character of our doors. We call this Marks of the Maker as this is a hand forged process and none of our products are extracted out of a extrusion type of machine. So when you see slight, gentle curvature or variation, rest assured it’s built into the process.
2. Do not use a level or straight edge on the hinge to check door alignment. The hinge is not a measuring point for our doors. Hinges act as pivot points and are not designed to be perfectly straight. Because of this, placing a level or straight edge on the hinge will always give a false reading. To confirm proper alignment, check the frame is level using a 12 inch level and has the correct clearance gaps around the frame. Adjust shims as needed at the (X) points listed above.
3. If the door rubs, or locks do not align, check frame leveling with a 12-inch level, shim points, and clearance gaps (.5 inch or larger). Adjust hardware and shims as needed.
