Install Guide | Lock
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If you have not watched our videos on receiving your shipment or on storage, and you doors have either not arrived yet, or are being stored, click with RECEIVING/PICKUP or STORAGE.
Step 1:
Install the deadbolt and make sure the arrow inside it is facing upward. NOTE: make sure your strike plate is correctly placed onto the deadbolt before screwing it into place.
Step 2:
Make sure your handles are facing the correct way. Unscrew the screw plate on the back and flip the handle if you need to.
NOTE: Use the 2 screws that come screwed into your door for this. Do the exact same thing with your latch, making sure that it’s faced correctly so that it will close into the receiving door properly. For wooden doors, use the black, pointed screws that come with the lock with the rest of your hardware.
Step 3:
Install the lock cylinder or the plug depending on if you are installing these on the active or inactive door. You will see there are 2 threaded holes on the back of the Lock cylinder.
Step 4:
Install the outer handle and the mounting plate using the correct hardware for your door's thickness. You're gonna want to tighten these screws somewhat loosely, then place a level on the top and side of the handle to make sure it is level before tightening them down. Install the interior side of the handle with the lower screws.
Step 5:
Install the interior side of the handle with the lower screws. If you're installing the lock cylinder, make sure the bolt turn and the flat piece coming off the back of the lock cylinder are both aligned vertically when you slide the lock cylinder into its place. If you are using these locks on the inactive door you can use the plug instead of the lock cylinder.
NOTE: Make sure to not screw the screws in too tightly into your locks otherwise the locks will be very stiff to turn.
Step 6:
Install the receiving strike plates and test out your new locks!
For steel or iron doors, there are a few more steps you may need to follow in order to get the perfect fitment.
If there is paint or epoxy inside of your strike plate area, you’ll want to use a razor blade to score the outline of the area, and then scrape the excess material away. In some cases, you may need to file a small part of this area down in order to properly mount your strike plate.
If you have a door with a flat astragal, such as an interior single door or a dutch door, this strike plate may cause the door to not seal as closely. We have 2 ways of making this situation better. We can either bend this strike plate down, or we can trim down the lip with an angle grinder.
BENDING:
Screw the strike plate into a 2x4 with the lip hanging off the edge, as shown in the picture below. With the Strike plate screwed in place tightly, take a mallet and bend this lip towards the door frame.
CUTTING:
We don’t want to cut too much of this lip off, however we can take off about 1/8 of an inch and it will likely help close the gap significantly. Round the corners of this cut and sand the edges for a better fit and finish, before touching up with black paint.
Lock Strike Plates
If the door is not 100% level (And even with the door being level, the strike plate may still require some fling adjustments), the latch and deadbolt strikes will not strike correctly into the opposing strike plate. In this case, you will need to fle down the opening of the strike plate in order for the latch to secure correctly.
On a wooden door, it is easy to notch out the wood to change the location of the strike plate, but because an iron door is
metal, instead of cutting and welding new metal, this fling of the plate is the solution for small strike issues. Our strike areas are standard* sizes and the plates can be purchased at your local hardware store
Please reference the diagram on the left for an example of a strike plate that has been fled vs. one that has not.
There are also times when the screw locations on the strike
plates may not line up 100% perfectly with the threading on our doors. In this case, you will need to drill the holes strike plate larger to align the screw holes. The bottom left diagram shows those locations as well.
*Filing adjustments may be needed depending on the lock manufacturer as they may not provide the correct size strike plate for our metal doors.
You can file down about 1/16th of an inch in any direction in order to make your door close more easily. Any further adjustment needed is likely going to be because of a door leveling/fitment issue that will need to be addressed at the source.
